There are moments in life when the call to adventure is so strong, it’s irresistible. For me, that moment came during a trip to Puerto Escondido, a hidden paradise along the Pacific coast of Mexico, where I decided to embark on a personal quest: learn to surf at Playa Carrizalillo.
Playa Carrizalillo, with its crystalline waters fringed by golden sand and flanked by green cliffs, is the perfect sanctuary for any beginner surfer. Its gentle waves and laid-back vibe make it an ideal learning spot, away from the intimidating reputation of Zicatela and its powerful breaks.
Choosing a Surf School
My quest began with choosing a surf school. Carrizalillo is teeming with options, but my choice fell on a small school recommended by friends and renowned for its personalized approach and commitment to ecology. After signing up, I found myself, board in hand, descending the stairs to the beach, my heart pounding at the thought of my first lesson.
First Encounter with the Ocean
My instructor, a local surfer with a contagious smile, welcomed me on the beach. After introductions, we began with the basics on the sand: positioning on the board, paddling technique, and the crucial move to stand up. There, lying on my board on the warm sand, I felt for the first time the connection between surfer and board, a prelude to the dance with the ocean.
The Baptism of Waves
Then came the moment to put the sand lessons into practice. We paddled past the gently breaking waves at the edge of the beach, my instructor by my side, guiding and encouraging me. When the first wave approached, his “Now!” rang out like a starting gun. With a mix of nervousness and excitement, I paddled, felt the wave catch me, and attempted to stand. Wobbly, I quickly found my way back to water, but with an indelible smile.
With each subsequent attempt, I got closer to the goal; each fall taught me something new about the ocean’s rhythm, about myself. And then, suddenly, everything aligned: the paddling, the wave, my body. I stood up, shaking, on my board, gliding over the water, heart bursting with joy. I was surfing.
Lessons from the Ocean
This first surf lesson was much more than just an introduction to a sport; it was a lesson in humility, perseverance, and respect for the power of nature. Each wave taught me to let go, to accept that I can’t always control the outcome, but to appreciate every moment of the experience.
A Renewed Commitment
Beyond the technical learning of surfing, this experience connected me to the surfing community of Puerto Escondido, a group of people sharing a common passion for the ocean and a deep respect for its environment. It encouraged me to take stronger personal commitments towards ocean protection, inspired by those who live by the waves every day.
Exiting the water that day, exhausted but exhilarated, I knew something within me had changed. I had not only begun to learn to surf but had also dived into a fascinating culture and met extraordinary people. Playa Carrizalillo wasn’t just a beach where I had my first surf lesson; it had become a place where I had been profoundly transformed, a place I would always carry in my heart.
For those, like me, dreaming of conquering the waves, Playa Carrizalillo in Puerto Escondido offers the perfect setting to begin this adventure. No matter the falls, each wave brings you closer to the indescribable magic of surfing, where spirit, body, and ocean become one.